THE GEOLOGICAL PATH
OF THE “LOST OCEAN”

1 - IL GRANDE GHIACCIAO DI VERRA ERA QUI

2 - LA PIETRA DOLCE

3 - LA RADURA DEI MONUMENTI

4 - LE SENTINELLE NERE

5 - LO SPECCHIO DI FAGLIA

6 - LA ROCCIA TRITURATA

7 - I CRISTALLI DEGLI ABISSI

8 - LE MONTAGNE SI MUOVONO ANCORA

9 - LE SPIAGGE DEI DINOSAURI

10 - BRILLANO GLI ANTICHI FANGHI DELL'OCEANO

11 - I CARBONI SPENTI SOTTO I PIEDI

12 - LA PIETRA COTTA

13 - LA PENTOLA GLACIALE

  • 1 - IL GRANDE GHIACCIAO DI VERRA ERA QUI

  • 2 - LA PIETRA DOLCE

  • 3 - LA RADURA DEI MONUMENTI

  • 4 - LE SENTINELLE NERE

  • 5 - LO SPECCHIO DI FAGLIA

  • 6 - LA ROCCIA TRITURATA

  • 7 - I CRISTALLI DEGLI ABISSI

  • 8 - LE MONTAGNE SI MUOVONO ANCORA

  • 9 - LE SPIAGGE DEI DINOSAURI

  • 10 - BRILLANO GLI ANTICHI FANGHI DELL'OCEANO

  • 11 - I CARBONI SPENTI SOTTO I PIEDI

  • 12 - LA PIETRA COTTA

  • 13 - LA PENTOLA GLACIALE

The Cime Bianche valley (located in the high part of Ayas Valley), even today, is more then ever tied up at the plea of the geologist Giorgio Dal Piaz, who invoked in the '90 the creation for a “Lost Ocean Park” due to its geological treasures evidence of the ancient ocean that gives origin at this part of the Alps.
Actually, peculiar of the Cime Bianche valley are:

a) the completion of the various elements forming the ocean floor (serpentinites of the mantle, ancient gabbros and basalts of the oceanic crust, and ancient sediment) in a specific and well delimited space;

b) the distribution of the above mentioned elements within three well distinguished levels: on the bottom, the deep oceanic lithosphere, at the higher level the crust with magmatic origin, and above all – separated by the lagoonal fringe of the Cime Bianche – the oceanic sequence mainly of sedimentary origin (Mount Roisetta, Mount Gran Tournalin)

c) the clearness of the several mineralogical association showing both the maximum depth phases (eclogites, garnet rocks, and jadeites), and the later ascent phases to surface (specifically the soapstone)

This situation must be considered unique because in no other place in the Alps all these three characteristics are found together.

Visiting the Cime Bianche valley, beside recognising the “Lost Ocean”, surprising information are shown on recent geological activity both in the geodynamic field (evident ground movements guided by the deep forces of the Earth) and glaciological fields.

TECHNICAL FEATURES

  • RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES: Magnifying glass, and small magnet

  • STARTING POINT: Saint Jacques square (1.685m)

  • ARRIVAL: Alpe Vardaz – alpine pasture (2.335)

  • WAYMARK: 8, no number, 8E, TMR, 6, 8E

  • DIFFICULTY: E (escursionisti) easy - trekkers

  • DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE: 650 m

  • LENGTH: 9400 m

  • UPHILL TIME REQUIRED: 2h30'

  • DOWNHILL TIME REQUIRED: 2h

INFORMATIONS

How to reach the starting point

From the highway A5 (Turin – Aosta), take the exit at Verrès, follow the regional road no. 45 of Ayas Valley.

Pass the towns of: Challand-Saint-Victor, Challand-Saint-Anselme, and Brusson until you reach the township of Ayas.
Crossed the town center of Champoluc, you reach Saint-Jacques des Allemands where it is possible to park the car in the square near by the small church.

In summer time (mainly July and August), in the last section of the road, traffic is limited and it is required to leave the car in the large parking area of Frachey village (departure of the funicular), and continue using the shuttle service.
If you prefer to use public transport, a bus line is available from Verrès to Saint-Jacques.

For information: http://www.vitagroup.it/linee-urbane-extra-vda

Useful Information

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

From the square of Saint-Jacques, proceed along the asphalted road flanking the torrent Evançon, and after a steep stretch you reach a votive shrine. Do not turn left, but continue straight along the side of the torrent.
A bit forward, at the end of the asphalted road, you cross a bridge: here starts a steep staircase bringing to pass the torrent of Tsère, and the path, paved until the wood, to Fiéry.
At the beginning of the wood, on the left in a small clearing, a panel explains charcoal production.

STOP 1. THE BIG GLACIER OF VERRA WAS HERE

The wood covers a spread of rocks in which a mule track had been laboriously traced.
How to recognize a glacial deposit:
origin of the blocks from where the ancient glacier where coming from, rounded edges, wide variety in the blocks dimensions, fair quantity of silt between stones. Beside, on a grassy pitch a panel explains that charcoal for industrial uses was made.

Follow the mule track (very slippery when wet), almost at the crossroads to Fiéry (in distance, you can see the path signal pole).
At this point, you leave the mule track, and follow the traces in plain - pointed out by stone piles – that lead to the ridge where the slope steeply descends to the torrent of Verra, until until you reach a large rock hovering on the ridge, to the shelter of which stands a plate of soapstone with engravings.

STOP 1 | MORE

The wide mule track, branched in several short variations, goes hardly up the slope looking for the best direction in a kind of skeleton field, that is, of rocky boulders of all sizes, from several meters to few centimetres, in total mix. The boulders have slightly rounded edges, and belong mainly to the species of rock coming from the walls overlying the Verra Plain, the serpentinites: a dark, bluish, and slippery rock. That is enough to merge this land to the moraine given by the ancient Verra glacier, which descend along all the entire valley. The larch wood has managed to grow on this poor soil, and nobody never tried to remove it to made grasslands or agriculture fields (except for tiny terracing, and in small area with alluvial deposits).

STOP. 2 THE SOAPSTONE

The soapstone from Aosta Valley (“pera douça” in patois dialect) is chlorite based, a green-grey laminar mineral, from ancient basaltic lava flows on the abyssal plain of the “alpine ocean”.

You come back on your steps to the mule track, follow it for a short distance until the crossroad, on the left, to Fiéry. In short you reach the small village of Fiéry, with its large hotel of the late 19th century where you can still breathe the air of the past (please note the oven, and the old signage). You continue beyond the houses until you come to a small bridge, do not cross it, but turn right in the larch wood between wall of support and demarcation, evidences of the past farming of this area.Where the ridge is more evident, looking on the left, on the other side of the torrent, you can see a beautiful clearing with large boulder with geometric shapes. You get there by taking the first detour to the left, and crossing the Tsère torrent on two side by side trunks.

STOP 2 | MORE

Here we are at the big rock hovering on the ridge overlooking the torrent. It is not clear how this big serpentinite boulder got there, but among the various curious things of this place there is a nice soapstone slab exposed under the boulder, on the upstream side. Several engravings appear on the slab, of which the most significant appear to be the cadastral limit on the right.
In Aosta Valley, the manufacturing of soapstone products (containers, stoves, furniture) is well proved, particularly starting from the VI century A.D. In Saint Jacques, large stockpiles of soapstone lathe waste attest a lively production of vessels. Quarried and laboratories are still to be identify with certainty.

STOP 3. THE CLEARING OF THE MONUMENTS

The esplanade is made up of fine sediments brought by the Tsère torrent finds an abrupt halt here (the lateral moraine cordon of the ancient Verra glacier) on its descent toward the valley floor.
In the green clearing stand out large blocks of rocks fallen by the surrounding walls, where climbers compete on vertical walls.

Continue on the ridge until you reach the the path coming from Pian di Verra, follow it halfway along the left on the left until you get to the dark vertical walls, often dripping.

STOP 3 | MORE

The unmarked path, running along the flat torrent, and then climb a ridge, reveals incredible works of stone removal, terracing, and support for the conquest of few square meters of grassland. And, in fact, the stone removal here is a titanic work as the ridge is the right lateral moraine left by the ancient glacier of Verra, in fact a wall of stone. This wall of stone forces the Tsère torrent to flow suspended on the side of the valley in a corridor between the side and the moraine: it can only join the Evançon torrent down to Blanchard.
But the corridor with the torrent that flows half way up, on our left, is very welcoming: along its way there are fine grained deposits that occasionally spread out in more or less humid green clearings. On the wider green clearing, up on the passageway, stand out some big boulders with regular geometric shapes that make teenagers happy fancy bouldering.
You can get there by taking the first detour to the left, and crossing the Tsère torrent on two side by side trunks.

STOP 4. THE BLACK SENTINELS

The rock appears marked in a large vertical dihedrals. On the test of the magnet, the rock is rich in magnetite. We are at the lowest Jurassic ocean floor dating back to 170/150 million of years ago.

The rock is serpentinite directly coming from the rock (peridotite) that forms the deepest part of the Earth crust.
In few minute you reach a large clearing, a viewpoint, from which you can admire the entire slope of the orographic left of Ayas town land (area of the Walser settlements) and part of the valley floor.
Continue on a stretch of track made of large stone steps that line the swirling descent of the torrent, until the reaching the begging of Pian di Tsère.
Walk along the now placid and sinuous course of the torrent that delimits the beautiful plain, until the end. You cross a small bridge in the direction of the dark rocky wall.

STOP 4 | MORE

On the 8E path that rapid goes up towards the narrow, and lengthened valley of Tsère, we finally meet what matters, for a structural geologist: the outcropping rock. It appears in a scenographic way with a succession of high and smooth dihedrons of black rock, resulting from vertical cracks that mark the wall at regular distance. The black colour derives in part form alteration (manganese oxide?), but the rock is in any case dark because it is rich in iron, magnetite in particular, as you can see with a magnet. It is serpentinite (hydrated silicate of magnesium with magnetite), the same rock we have already found as glacial deposit in the mule track to Fièry, and as flap debris in Amena valley. The serpentinite comes from under the ocean floor, from the metamorphism of peridotite, which thewhole Earth's mantle is made of (the thick zone lying between the Erath's crust and core). As a matter of fact, we are starting a crossing of the ancient oceanic crust that was covering the alpine area in the Jurassic (150 millions of years ago), and which we find beautifully represented in the Cime Bianche valley.

STOP 5. THE FAULT PLANE

The large flat and very tilted wall shines in the sun, especially when wet. There are here too the extremely black magnetite rock. The rock is smoothed as a mirror following the violent detachment from the slab now sunk at the base of Pian di Tsère, which was originally attached to.

At the plain of the plateau, the path initially climbs to the right of the valley until it metts a very friable bottom.

STOP 5 | MORE

On the Tsère plain, the view on mirror rock parade, closing the plain to the mountains, is stunning: smooth black walls, aligned, flat, and very tilted, which slip into the grass. Here again, with a magnet, we can verify the rocks are serpentinite, but in this case they provide us more information. Those walls are smooth as a consequence of a fracture with sinking of the rock mass that was originally together, a sudden sliding, and presumably as long as the the height of the walls themselves. Thus, where previously there was continuity of the rock a depression was created, then filled with pebbles and soil. This is the origin of the Tsère plain, but its age is quite uncertain. As a matter of fact its mirror surface it seems to be exposed to atmospheric agents only recently (after the deglaciation), but the fault could have occerred much earlier at weak depth.

STOP 6. THE SHREDDED ROCK

Halfway up the hill, you walk on crumbly rocks, that fall apart into a thousand blue flakes.
We are on the roof (at the upper end) of the large body of black and magnetic rocks, the serpentinites, on which we have walked so far. The contact and rubbing with other rocks, that we will see above, us makes serpentinites schistose and laminated.

You carry on until the small col, leaving the detour to the Palon di Tsère and the “Città di Mariano” bivouac on the right, to reach the top of the geological itinerary. Stop at the highest point, pointed by a stone pile, in view of both Alpe Varda, and the edge of a furrow that the path descents and goes up again.

STOP 6 | MORE

The TMR (Mount Rose Tour) trail runs across the plain until it crosses the torrent, then passing in front of the black mirror, and climbs the ridge that delimitates the Tsère valley. Halfway up the hill, you walk on a strip of pale blue fragmented rocks. After some tests with lens, and magnet, we hardly recognize the Tsère serpentinite: these ones are laminated towards the top by metabasite that in the oceanic crust are at next higher level. We do not see metabasite outcrops yet, because are under detrital deposits, but we can recognizes some among the boulders spread on the grass. The magnet does not stick to these rocks.

STOP 7. THE CRYSTAL OF THE ABYSSES

Right on the small grassy ridge come up listed rocks with small green, red and with crystals: they are the assemblies of high pressures-great depths, that reveal how The Alps were born.
We are still at the ocean floor, but at a higher level compare of the serpentinites of Tsère.

Just alongside the listed rocks, a regular rocky furrow flows along the valley.

STOP 7 | MORE

Ocean floor are, and always have been, very active geologically speaking: plates are moving fast, magma bodies intrude in the oceanic crust or erupt on the seabed. From Alpe Varda on rocks reproduce, in their entirety, the chemical composition of those magmas: iron and magnesium silicates, with a part of an other silicates more sensible to heat (calcium, sodium, aluminium). But there still a issue: minerals are no longer the same. Between the ocean floor (150 millions of years ago), and the current mountains magma went through a spectacular sinking (45 millions of years ago) of the oceanic plate which metamorphosed the basaltic minerals in high pressure minerals. Due to the narrowing of the space between the continents, the oceanic plate subducted under the African continental plate reaching great depth (high pressure) the original magmatic minerals could not stand it. All we find nowadays in the ground is evidence of this passageway in depth. For this reason these rocks are no more called basalt or gabbros (magmatic rocks), but metabasite (metamorphic rocks).
The metabasite we find at this intermediate level are mainly rusty, and difficult to understand. Only in some place, for example on the top of grassy ridge in front of Alpe Varda, the fresh crack let distinguish small green crystals (onfacite), red crystals (garnet), and white crystals (zoisite?) coming directly from the bowels of the Earth (they form only over 60 km deep).

STOP 8. MOUNTAINS ARE STILL MOVING

The two edges were united and detached due to the stretching of the ground due to the recent rise of Mount Rosa. The moorland, and all the valley result from these movements, that may be dated from about 35 millions of years ago.

Cross to the left, and you reach the main path of the Cime Bianche Valley, at the crossroad that we will find in the descent, continue on the right for a hundred meters to reach the ruins of Varda building, (probably a warehouse for commercial itineraries that crossed the Cime Bianche Valley toward Switzerland).

The three Cime Bianche (Gran Sometta, Bec Carré and Pointe Sud) appear surprisingly in front of us and the white strip that runs along the walls to the west is clearly visible (from the Grand Tournalin to the Roisetta).

STOP 8 | MORE

A straight slit, with vertical walls, runs along the slope exposing the rock. Mainly almost 10 meters large, and deep a bit less, it goes down slanting along the Palon of Tsère, comes in and then goes out from the Alpe Varda peat bog. On the path, we cross the straight with short descent, and with a short uphill, before merge on the left in the large path no. 6. It is a deep rift in the ground, with a frack and dislocation of the rocky mass that reveals the tension to which the Cime Bianche valley had undergone after the last orogenic movements. Indeed we can say the entire valley, in its partitions of Tsère, Aventine, and Courtod, is the result of the crust l stretching caused by the Mount Rosa lifting up. We carefully look at these and others signs of deep activity: it seems useful for humanity to understand what our Planet is doing, and we can see it on our mountains.

STOP 9. THE DINOSAURS BEACHE

The steep right side of the valley is cut in half by a white band: it is the ancient salty lagoon, and the beaches that looked at the ocean that formed. Above are piles of muddy sediment of the ancient ocean (Tournalin, and Roisetta).

After a pause to enjoy of the extraordinary landscape, the descent begins. Returning to the previous crossroad, you change itinerary going down through wide pastures. Here there are some erratic boulders, and on the left, the signs of an ancient rù (irrigation creek). Just before the crossing the small creek coming from the large moorland of Varda, between the metabasites, more and more friable rocks emerge which make small islands of dusty soil. They are spurts of ancient oceanic muds.

STOP 9 | MORE

After a quick round trip to the Alpe Varda ruins, we point to the big face on the right (to the west) of the valley, spectacularly cut - halfway up the hillside - by the light strip of the Cime Bianche.
Actually, the white strip is not really related to our ancient ocean. It represents the lagoons that, on the huge beaches of the supercontinent Pangea (250 millions of years ago), preceded the opening of the ocean, with their sands, their evaporation salt, and their coral reefs. Age and contest are the same of the Dolomites; but here later all have been deeply changed during the alpine orogenesis, as a consequence it not possible to find fossils.
The white band separated also the intermediate level of the oceanic crust, on which we are now on, from the upper level outcropping. Above the white band we can find a layer mainly made of chlorite schists, rocks derived by muggy, and calcareous sediments of ocean-basin flloor. The mountains Tournalin and Roisetta, that stand above us, are made of chlorite schists with some inclusions of metabasite, and even less serpentinite.

STOP 10. THE ANCIENT MUDS OF THE OCEAN SHINE

Beside the stretch of dusty path, some stones on sides show beaded dark crystals, like a grater. 150 million of years ago a spray of oceanic mug (clay, and limestone) crept between the basaltic magma flows than sank in subduction as all the rest of the oceanic plate. The result is a high pressure ferriferous micas that shine on the path, and with garnets sometimes clear that peep out on the stones.

Then going down on steep hairpin turns to reach the Alpe Ventina. After passing the ruins of the mountain pastures and facing a new descent, you reach a small plateau, where you can see a weather station on the right. At this point our itinerary deviates significantly to the right, runs alongside the Djomein mountain pasture, and reaches the Courtod Valley, crossing a small bridge on the homonymous torrent, and proceeding on the plain until the reaching of the path descending in the valley.
The path, placed on the orographic right, cross a steep wooded slope, then passes on a clearing of an ancient charcoal kiln.

STOP 10 | MORE

On the stony slope that goes down from Alpe Ventina, the path suddenly becomes dusty and shiny, while some stones on the sides show dark embossed crystal as a grater. 150 millions of years ago a splash of oceanic mug (clay, limestone) crept in between the basaltic magma flows, then subducted as all the rest of the oceanic plate. The result is a high pressure ferriferous mica that shines on the path, with clear garnets that sometimes peep out on the stones.

STOP 11. THE DULL COALS UNDER THE FEET

Towards the end of the flat and often muddy section of the path that leaves from Courtod alpine pasture, you walk on a clearing whose bottom is made up of wood charcoal residues that are still clearly recognizable from their size and black colour.

A short section and then, at the point where the path starts to descend again, you reach the area of the furnace (a bit earlier you ca see pieces of the white calcareous rocks used to obtain lime).

STOP 11 | MORE

Among the fruits of the wood, one of the most required, especially starting from the seventeenth century, was the charcoal, mainly used in metallurgy. It was produces in small clearings, specially equipped pitches in the wood, by means of conical stockpile of wood conveniently arranged in order to transform, by the heat of the fire – without flames – the wood into coal. The process used to take two weeks of cooking, and other two for the set up and cooling, during this time the charcoal burners worked in pairs in order to always take action in case the fire would have started to blaze, and consequently destroy the charcoal kiln. From the middle of seventeenth century to the end of nineteenth century several regulations issued by: the local community, the Conseil des Commis (Council of the High Officials), and the Savoy court tried to rule the production of charcoal in order to safeguard woods considered essential (food, and soil protection), and on the other side to meet the interest of the production (owners of the woods, metallurgical industrials and their customers, among them the Savoy arsenale/weaponry).

STOP 12. THE COOKED STONE

A panel shows how the furnace works to obtain lime from the cooking of the blocks of limestone present in abundance in the area. The rocky spike outcrop that rises high in the direction of the furnace, under Monte Croce (or Brun), is called Monte de la Tchas (line).

The path, now descend to the right, cross a nice clearing, and then decisively turn left on a grassy basin (signpost), plunge into the wood until it almost runs along the torrent. At he point where the path is closest to the bank of the torrent, just before the rocky walls, bolted for climbing, on the right toward the slope, you can see an outcrop of serpentinites at ground level (stone pile, nearby).

STOP 12 | MORE

Near by the torrent, we are walking on the woody bank which is made up of debris in blocks, generally of small size, fallen from the overlying wall, especially from the higher parts: chlorite schists and white band. This availability of calcareous material together with the timber of the wood must have suggested the installation of a lime kiln, now worthily illustrated by a large panel placed on the path.

STOP 13. THE GLACIAL PLOT

It is a cylindrical, narrow, deep, and with vertical axle pothole. These results of erosion remain mysterious, they require relatively high energies (certainly not the pebble that quietly runs on the floor…), and relatively short construction times.
It is natural to refer its genesis to the glacial environment, assuming wells under pressure in the thickness of the ice mass above. But the models hypothesized so far are not very satisfactory...

With the last small downhill stretch, you reach the farm road that leads into Nana Valley, until you meet the paved road shortly after. You pass by a carpentry workshop and continue to a crossroad just before the bridge on the torrent Evançon (which takes its course right at this point, the result of the union, in a short section of the torrents of Verra, Tsère, and Courtod). Following the road on the right that leads to the houses of Pelioz, and from there through a beautiful mule track, you reach in few minutes the road faced uphill, and the square of Saint-Jacques where our geological excursion ends.

STOP 13 | MORE

The itinerary 8E then returns a trail, it descends down to quote 1800 m next to a huge boulders (metabasite), collapsed in a humid and steep area, nearly a gorge. On our right, between grass, musk, and shrubs, very discreet, we can find a serpentinite outcrop. The serpentinite rocky surface is smooth and humid, and it is parallel to the slope with a large gutter shaper channel. On top the conduit comes out from a vertical cylindrical cavity that is about 40 centimetres wide and at least half a meter deep on the side of the swiping, and over a meter on the side oriented upstream. Little debris lays on the bottom, and the question is engaging: why doesn't a hole in the grass fill up with soil?
These kinds of erosion forms remain mysterious, they require quite high energies (certainly not the pebble that quietly runs on the bottom …), and relatively short construction times.
It is natural to refer its genesis at the glacial environment, assuming wells under pressure in the thickness of the ice mass above. But the models hypothesized so far seem rather unlikely...
Certaines formes d’érosion restent certes pour le moins mystérieuses, elles nécessitent d’une énergie considérable (ce n’est certainement pas le petit caillou qui creuse tranquille sur le fond du trou) et des temps de réalisation relativement brefs. Spontanément, on s’en remettrait à l’environnement glaciaire qui en serait l’origine, en supposant des puits sous pression dans l’épaisseur surplombante de la masse de glace …Toutefois, ces hypothétiques modèles paraissent plutôt improbables à nos yeux.